Harrogate

Harrogate Train Station

I read a lot of Jane Austen during my scholarly quest to obtain an English Literature degree. In Jane Austen’s novels, Harrogate was where the refined would go to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and live at a slower pace. There were dances, social gatherings, and promenades down the wide streets. I idolized and dreamed of such a place – where life slowed down, and there were no cares in the world. So when I discovered that Harrogate was less than two hours by train from Grasscroft (where I was staying in the U.K.), I purchased my ticket (£26,10 round-trip – about $30 at the time of purchase) and headed out on a lovely Thursday morning.

In 1858, Charles Dickens described Harrogate as “the queerest place with the strangest people in it, leading the oddest lives of dancing, newspaper-reading, and table d’hôte[1].” Harrogate found its draw in the “healthy” waters bubbling up from over 100 wells. There are sulfur wells[2], magnesia wells[3], and chalybeate[4] wells. Partaking of the waters was prescribed and thought to have remarkable healing properties – if the patient didn’t get sick from the smell or taste of the waters. To avoid a gag reflex, it was recommended to shoot the prescribed amount of water, much as you would a shot of liquor. I don’t know about you, but that doesn’t sound appealing at all! I did not try the waters – I doubt I would’ve made a very good patient during the Romantic or Victorian eras – at least, not if taking the waters was part of my routine. I’m pretty sure I could knock dancing, newspaper reading, and eating out of the park, though!

Unless I have a specific destination or site to see in a new town, I head first to the tourist information office. Tourist offices are the best-kept secret in town and are worth the extra 30 minutes you’ll spend in one. They are handy if you have limited time to explore and want to make the best of your visit. While wandering around the center, I overheard the staff recommend a free walking tour to each person they spoke with. I love walking tours and have taken quite a few throughout my travels. Sometimes they’re excellent, sometimes they aren’t, but usually, they are very economical (free or under ten bucks), compact, and full of good information. When it was my turn, I asked about the walking tour and was told, very enthusiastically, that Harry ran the best tour in town and if he didn’t know something about Harrogate, it wasn’t worth knowing. Sold! I got directions on how to get to the meeting point, and I searched for Harry and his Free Walking Tour of Harrogate.

Harrogate War Memorial

Harrogate is a straightforward town to navigate, and I found the war memorial easily. It is protected and listed on the National Heritage List for England and commemorates those from Harrogate who lost their lives during WWI, WWII, and other conflicts. I have yet to find a town in the U.K. that does not have at least one war memorial, and this one was quite lovely.

A little before noon, Harry bounded up to the meeting spot and introduced himself. While waiting for others to join us, he talked with each of us, making an effort to learn our names and where we were from. I was impressed with his ability to ease each of us into conversation, not only with him but with other tour-goers as well.

Harry explains the Sulfur Well.

At noon, Harry gathered us in a tight little group, and our tour began. He led us on an hour and twenty-minute walk through the past, highlighting Harrogate’s beginnings, growth into a prosperous spa town, stint as a military base during the wars, slide from extreme prosperity, and its rebirth to a beautiful vacation destination.

As we walked along to various locations in town, I imagined myself strolling down Parliament Street and stopping in at Betty’s Tea Shop. I could see myself lingering in the Stray, a 200-acre public space beautifully landscaped, enjoying a stroll along the creek fed by the wells or enjoying a picnic lunch on a hill overlooking the city. I have already forgotten the little jewels of knowledge Harry so carefully prepared but what I do have from my time with Harry is an understanding of how Harrogate came to be and why the citizens are proud to call it home. 

We finished our trek through history at Betty’s Tea Shop and said goodbye to the best walking tour guide I’ve had in a long time. Should you find yourself in Harrogate, take advantage of Harry’s tour – you will not regret it. While Harry is not a Blue Badge Tour Guide[5], his knowledge, love, and interest in providing the best glimpse of Harrogate is top drawer.

Betty's Cafe - Established 1919

[1] Table d’hôte – a multi-course meal offered at a fixed price with a few choices for each course. Literally translated to “table of the host.”

[2] Sulfur has antibacterial effects against the bacteria that causes acne, and it was believed to help individuals with various skin conditions, arthritis, internal disorders, and digestive disorders.

[3] The magnesia well contains mild sulfur water and was believed to be a powerful diuretic.

[4] Chalybeate is a natural mineral spring that contains iron salts. Chalybeate was used to treat “delicate and anemic” patients.

[5] A Blue Badge Tour Guide has completed an intensive course in tourism and has received accreditation from the Institute of Tourist Guiding. 

Royal Hall - opened 1903

Turkish Baths - opened July 1897

Found in the Valley Gardens, a part of the Stray

Originally a school - built in 1873

Hales Bar - the oldest pub in Harrogate, originating mid-18th century