Three Days in Oslo

My love affair with Norway began November 2016 with my expedition to Oslo and Tromsø. Despite the trials of a suitcase that failed to make the trip with me, I had the best time and the country, its people, and its spectacular scenery made its way into my blood (read about my first Norwegian adventure here). I don’t have a lick of Norwegian DNA but from the moment I stepped in the country, I felt at home. Frankly, I am surprised at how much I love that country. Up to then, I always imagined I’d end up in Germany. If you ask me now where I’d give my eye teeth to immigrate to, it’d be Norway.

In any case, I now take any opportunity I can to go to the land of fjords and any excuse I can find to get me there works. The excuse I found this time was a light festival called Fjord Oslo - a festival of light art transforming the Oslo Harbour Promenade into an outdoor exhibition of light. I learned about the light festival on the Visit Oslo Facebook page and quickly looked at flights. I found a somewhat decent flight and hotel package and before I knew it, I purchased my ticket and booked my hotel. You know, if you can’t take an impromptu trip when you’re retired, just when can you do it?

I arrived in Oslo mid-afternoon on 31 October 2019. By the time I made it through customs, navigated the train to Central Oslo, and found my way to my hotel, it was early evening – just in time for dinner. I picked the Clarion Collection Hotel Bastion as my home base because they offer breakfast and a “light” dinner. Lodging and food in Oslo are expensive and this hotel was about average (for Norway) in cost but with the meal inclusions, my out-of-pocket expense decreased dramatically. Let me just say that all meals were spectacular and no one said a thing when I went back for seconds (or even thirds). My room, while typically European (small), was well appointed and comfortable. Located just a short 10-minute walk from Oslo Sentrum (city center), the Hotel Bastion was perfect and I will happily stay there again on my next visit to Oslo.

The dining area of Hotel Bastion

On the evening of my arrival, I did not do much. I walked to the harbor, explored the hotel area, and just people-watched. Fjord Oslo did not start until Friday so I used the time to relax from my journey and plan my exploits for the next three days. Friday morning saw me wide-awake at 4 am so I went for a walk. Age is creeping up on me and while my first trip to Norway saw me exploring all things at oh-dark-thirty, this time I was a little slower. And a little more tired. So I settled for the walk that would fill the time before breakfast.

The Oslo Opera House at 5:15am

After breakfast, I walked to the Oslo Visitor’s Center where I picked up my 3-day Oslo Pass (NOK 820, about $90.00). The Oslo Pass includes all transit in Oslo zones 1 and 2 plus entrance to all of the museums a tourist could want. It’s a heck of a deal for transit alone, add in the museums and you’ve got another tool to help you discover all that Oslo has to offer while keeping costs contained. After retrieving my pass, I made my way to the Munchmuseet (Munch Museum). Currently, the museum holds all of Munch’s works while a brand new space is being built. In addition to the work of Munch, other important artists like Amaldus Nielsen, Harriet Backer, and Teddy Røwde (just to name a few) are featured. Even if you are not an art person, the Munchmuseet is a must-see. Take your time, enjoy the exhibits, browse the gift shop, and get a cup of coffee at the attached café – it is worth taking your time to go through. Adult tickets are NOK 120 (about $12.00), free with the Oslo Pass. Take the tram to Tøyen (or bus #20 to Munchmuseet), walk up the short hill, and it will be on your left. At least, until they move to Bjørvika in June 2020.

From the museum, I walked to Oslo Sentrum. I love walking through central Oslo. At one end of Karl Johans gate is the Royal Palace (DetKongelige Slott), and at the other is Oslo Central Station. Just over a kilometer long, Karl Johans gate is the main pedestrian street in the city center. You’ll find plenty of shops to find that special something including plenty of photo opportunities and gawking at sites such as the National Theatre, Oslo Domkirke (church), and the Parliament building. The Norwegian chocolate company, Freia, has a store on Karl Johans that you should visit. The chocolate is fabulous and a great place to purchase Kvikk Lunsj (“quick lunch”). The Kvikk Lunsj bar is like a Kit Kat but oh-so-much better. You can’t leave Norway without at least trying it. If you’re like me, you’ll end up with a backpack full of them (they make great gifts). A little cost-saving tip, Freia chocolate is less expensive at the Freia store, and even more economical at the duty-free shop in the airport. I can spend hours happily walking up and down Karl Johans gate, browsing, stopping for a coffee (or tea, or hot chocolate), and people-watching. 

After a delicious dinner at my hotel, I made my way to the Harbour Promenade to view Fjord Oslo. The air was crisp, the night sky clear, and the light installations magical. Two of the installations used the Akershus Fortress as the backdrop, one used the Rådhuset (City Hall) as its platform, one was carried in a one-man rowboat in the harbor, and the rest were beamed into the harbor sky. It was magnificent. I spent about three hours, walking up and down the promenade admiring the light installations, the night sky, and the people. Before I knew it, it was 11 pm and my yawns were getting harder and harder to contain. Fjord Oslo would carry on for the next two nights so I bade farewell to the fjord and wandered back to my hotel. 

Lysyntese

Private Moon

Ligh3ence

Scuba Diver Sculpture

Le Bal Des Luminéoles

Le Bal Des Luminéoles and Akershus Fortress

The next day, I took the train to Holmenkollen, the site of the Holmenkollen Ski Festival since 1892, and the 1952 Winter Olympics (Lillehammer, Norway, about two and a half hours north of Oslo, hosted the Winter Olympics in 1994). After a forty-minute (give or take) train ride and a ten-minute hike up a mountain, I found myself at the base of Holmenkollbakken (ski jumping hill). The views from the mountain were spectacular and the museum, which covers 4,000 years of skiing in Norway, nicely put together. Entrance to the museum is NOK 140 (about $15) or free with the Oslo Pass, and the train to Holmenkollen is free with the Oslo Pass as well. Aside from the museum, there is a zipline, ski simulator, and bungee jump from the tower. These attractions have additional cost and are not included in the Oslo Pass. If you are so inclined, you could walk the stairs up and down the tower. I was not so inclined. As for me, I was content to wander the beautiful grounds, explore the gift shop, and walk through the museum. I spent the morning in Holmenkollen before making the trek down the mountain to the train.

When I got back to Oslo, I walked the city center again instead of rushing to another tourist destination. On my first trip to Oslo, I went and went and went. I filled every waking moment with a goal, a thing I “had” to see. Because I have been to Oslo before, and know that I will be back again, I did not feel obligated to see everything on this short trip. I chose a few things I didn’t get to see during my last visit and let my mood and lack of navigation skills inform my direction. I’m not sure if it is age or me just getting comfortable with Norway that I didn’t feel it necessary to fill every moment but I have come to appreciate this less frenzied approach to exploring.

Karl Johans gate

The motorized scooter industry has made its way into Oslo and I was tempted to try it. But I didn’t. Because I was worried I’d not be able to operate it, or I’d lose my balance and fall off, get smooshed by a car, or run into a pedestrian. However, I did research it, just in case I got up the nerve. The two companies I saw were Lime and Voi. Both companies charge an unlock fee and then you’re charged a per-minute rate. From what I saw scattered throughout the city, you can pick up and leave your scooter anywhere. I think it’s something I’ll have to try next time. 

I slept in a little bit on Sunday, my last full day in Oslo. After breakfast, I walked to the Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park – a waterfront green space jutting out into the Fjord. While the park only has a few sculptures, there were quite a few sculptures on display on the way to the park. Some of the art I liked, some I did not, but the views, oh my! Spectacular! I watched brave, insane souls swim in the fjord, listened to the wind, and watched the clouds roll in. The sculptures added an ambiance to the scene that is hard to describe. I’ll say this though, when I left, I felt as refreshed as I imagined the fjord swimmers felt.

From the park, I meandered into the Astrup Fearnley Museet. The museum is a private museum of contemporary art and consists of two buildings. Showing changing exhibitions from international and Norwegian contemporary artists and the collection of Astrup Fearnley, the museum is considered one of Oslo’s most important art museums. The exhibition on display when I visited was “Gilbert & George – The Great Exhibition”. I quickly discovered, as I wandered between the exhibits and buildings, that I do not care for contemporary art. The entrance fee is NOK 130 (about $14.00), and gives you admittance to both buildings; entrance is free with the Oslo Pass.

For my final afternoon, I made my way to the Hønse-Lovisas Hus. Built in the 1800s, the house has had many different uses from residence to warehouse to movie location to its current use as a coffee house. It is located in Beierbakken and overlooks the Akerselva river. I had my first Norwegian waffle at the Hønse-Lovisas Hus during my first visit to Oslo and whenever I am back, I make a point to go. I am told there are better places to get even better waffles but I can’t help the nostalgia this little red cabin holds for me.

From the Hønse-Lovisas Hus, I followed the river down to Mathallen Oslo. Mathallen is the Norwegian’s take on the good old-fashioned food court. Within its walls house glorious scents, colorful displays, and amazing food focusing on Norwegian specialties and old-world inspiration. There is always something going on at Mathallen, and if you’ve got the time, take advantage of the many classes and special events that are offered. I love walking up and down the stalls at Mathallen.

Akerselva River

That evening, I took my final dinner meal at the Hotel Bastion and walked down to the harbor for Fjord Oslo’s final showing. It was just as magical as it was the first night. I took in views of the Opera House reflecting into the harbor and smelled winter in the air. I found it remarkable that just a few short years ago, I wasn’t content unless my day was chockablock full, but now I crave a slower pace. And I am stunned at how Norway has ingrained itself into my very being. I haven’t seen or experienced everything Oslo and Norway as a whole has to offer, but I know I will return. And maybe on my next visit, I will know how to say more than “Tusen takk”.

Disclaimer - I was not compensated for any of my reviews, opinions, or statements.

Oslo Fjord